India

Jump to: Gallery, Route, Next stage: Australia

Holy CowIndia is a country unlike any other I’d cycled through so far. There is a contrast between things which stands out more profoundly – with everything from the people who stare out at us and ask us questions, to the landscapes which veer from vast flats to sudden steep ghats. Between cleanliness of removing shoes before entering shops and rooms, and the uncleanliness of… Everything else. Perhaps its the overly cautious and paranoid upbringing in other countries, but somehow I doubt it’s quite as simple as that. Never been somewhere with so much dirt, dust, noise, general pollution and lack of hygiene. Cycling across a town will leave you coated in thick dust and dirt, and I’ve had a persistent cough for the entire time here. And despite this, India is an amazing country, easy to love. Everytime I think back to my time in India, I remember more and more how much I loved it, and just what an unbelievable experience it was.

SunriseCycling through India is, in many ways, rather easy. The roads aren’t as bad as you might expect, and with a bed and cooked meal at the end of each day, there’s a lot more simplicity in things. Most (reasonably large) towns have at least one lodging (hotels in India of course usually meaning restaurant), though sometimes its a case of having to ask around.
Along the roads we cycled (State Highways 3 and 6), restaurants are also regularly spaced out. Meals at these places varied, but a meal of dhal fry and roti were almost always available. The usual precautions of avoiding any uncooked vegetables and suspicious meats also meant I was able to go the entire month without any of the dreaded “Delhi Belly”. Mineral water is easy to come by, with “Bisleri Parni” being understood nearly everywhere (though occasionally not, as was the case in some places which actually had Bisleri…). They came in convenient 1l bottles, which fit nicely into my bottle cages, so I never had to resort to the experience of reusing my bottles (and inevitably having them taste of whatever you cycled past the day before…). And although shops from where you can buy anything more than snacks are few and far between , good cooked food is easy to find.

Cycling during January and February means 4 weeks of non stop sunshine and dryness. Setting off by 08:30 meant we could cycle 80-100km by 1pm, and avoid the worst of the sun. At its worst, it was easy for temperatures to rise up to 40 degrees, down to a cool 30 degrees in the shade. The heat and hotels also meant that in hindsight there were many things we could have left behind. There was never a need for camping, given the abundance of lodgings (and the difficulty in buying food to cook). Tents, sleeping bags and sleeping pads could all have happily stayed at home. A silk sleeping bag liner and pillowcase was really all you need for staying in the various lodgings, with their varying standards of hygiene.

BathtimePeople have a lot of ideas about India, and there’s always a risk of succumbing to the preconceptions that it holds.
But without a doubt it’s been one of the most exciting and unique countries I’ve visited so far, and one which is difficult to imagine until you visit.

There can surely be few better ways to see a country so beautifully different as India, then to spend the rest of your life cycling around it…


Route

View in Google Maps

India

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