Japan

Jump to: Gallery, Route, Next stage: North America

SoyaAfter cycling through Australia, it was hard to imagine a country more suited toward cycle touring. Japan though, has to be a strong contender. Not only are the roads exceptional, the drivers courteous and the scenery stunning, there’s one thing that no other country has quite in the same abundance: onsens. While there were still plenty of opportunities in Japan to wash body and clothes under taps and streams, it was the sheer quantity and quality of these hot springs that adds that hint of luxury to cycle touring here.
Each and every onsen and sento we used was great in a differrent way, though none quite matched the comfort and tranquility of that in Tomamae. A minute’s stroll from the campsite in Hokkaido, the well designed, affordable and incredibly relaxing salt water onsen offered an amazing view out over the sun setting sea.

The route we chose across Japan differed of course from that originally planned, from Tokyo to the North via Sendai. This also meant that Meow never managed his pilgrimage to Tashirojima- Cat Island. Something both he and I were sad about about, but which will no doubt happen in the future…

The new route planned was just as successful though, crossing the Mountains North-West of Tokyo towards Niigata, taking in some breathtaking sights along the way.
Once there, it was a simple case of following the coast North, taking a ferry across from Aomori to Hakodate, and shooting up the relatively flat roads to the Northern most tip.

Hairpin BendsNavigating through Japan was relatively simple (if not mountainous). With a large scale English atlas of Japan, and a smaller scale bilingual map, we were able to plot routes without difficulty, using the excellent bilingual road signs, help from people we stayed with, and of course the ever reliable Google Maps on our Blackberrys as a back up.
Finding wild camping spots also proved a lot easier than I expected. Japan is probably the safest country in the world, and so from that perspective there are no issues with free camping at all. The only concern as always would be camping on someone’s private land, or farm, or indeed finding free space between the sprawlkig cities enough to camp. Nonetheless, there was never a problem finding a small wood, patch of grass, or beautiful shelter in which to pitch up a tent.
Hokkaido in particular seems ideal for two wheeled tourists, and indeed there were many cyclists and motorcyclists whizzing around the countryside. A chance encounter with one such cyclist introduced us to Rider Houses- cheap (or even free) basic accomodation set up for tired travellers.

Foggy MountainsFood, although sometimes more expensive, was always readily available, and we had no problem getting enough food. Our cooking perhaps could only loosely be described as meals, but with a diet of curry, pasta, tofu, pumpkin, beansprouts, whatever cheap meat scraps we could afford and of course rice, we managed to have a relatively balanced diet. Breakfast was always more of a game of roulette. Without any grasp of Japanese, we chose pastries at random, not knowing whether that was really chocolate covering the donuts, whether that was raison malt loaf or bread speckled with red beans, or whether buns would be filled with curry.
The one suggestion I can make though is to not be fooled into thinking that the cheapest coffee is the best buy. We ended up having to regrinding ours, and still the morning percolations were a disappointment.

Power too, was something I was concerned about before reaching Japan. Knowing that the only compatible cellular signal with foreign phones was 3G, my phone would eat through batteries in no time. Luckily salvation came even more readily than in Australia. Power outlets littered the country, and it was never hard to find somewhere to plug in. Convenience stores in particular, became ideal points for this. Stopping at one of the ever-present stores to pick up food, water, snacks, or use their facilities gave plenty of opportunities to have a nifty charge up.

Nikka WhiskeyAlthough I’ve been to Japan many times before, this experience has been completely different, meeting more people, seeing more of the beautiful country, and sa always, eating the delicious food. It will be sad to leave of course, but I know I’ll be back soon – there’s still a little part of the country which I haven’t yet cycled.
The last week in Japan has been a time to relax, catch up with the usual array of admin, and start planning the route for the next and final leg – the 3000 odd miles across the USA.



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Japan

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