Turkey & Syria

Jump to: Turkey Gallery, Syria Gallery, Route, Next Stage: India

BosphorusTurkey and Syria have to be two of the friendliest places I have been to so far.
We entered Turkey on a foggy evening, after spending hours at the border waiting to cross in. but once the mist had risen, the country that lay ahead of us for the next month was as beautiful as it was diverse. Nowhere had we yet been made to feel so welcome, and with delicious chai being served to us at almost every town we passed through, it’s difficult to imagine why foreigners are so inclined to visit solely the touristy areas.
Everyone wanted to know who we were, where we were going and why we were going. But in between the passing curiosities, there was genuine goodwill everywhere – from the tea, to the kind and curious shephard, and of course our good friends in Eskishehir.
Of course the varied landscape, as beautiful as it was, did come with one obvious drawback – the mountains. From the first day, the terrain undulated constantly – we could cycle all day, starting and ending at the same elevation, yet climbing nearly 1000 height metres throughout the day. Tiring and demoralising as it might be, there’s something wholly satisfying about reaching the top of a 1400m mountain, and even more satisfying the inevitable descent that follows.

Aleppo CitadelEntering Syria too, became a strangely welcoming experience. As the sun set on the beautifully level horizon and we stepped over the border, people were shouting hellos and waving enthusiastically.
The first night’s camping exemplified that nicely, when pitched up in an olive grove, the farmer not only said it was fine but insisted on serving us tea.
The people and hospitality have been fantastic, and even without being able to utter a single word in Arabic (except perhaps maybe the occasional “Sukran” and “Muntaz”), we’ve found ourselves feeling very welcomed.

The roads too have all been of surprisingly excellent quality. I’m only surprised and admittedly somewhat disappointed by the excess of rubbish everywhere. Seeing litter extending from the roadside to the edge of the treeline about 20 meters away made me realise more than almost anything else how easy and “developed” (at least in regards to waste management) things in the UK are. Like in many other countries we’ve travelled through, the approach to dealing with waste was to simply throw it on the side of the road, or to burn it. This isn’t even the pollution inherently found in inner city areas (which I know is much worse in other countries), but instead the waste which people have actively decided to dispose of in the countryside. One stretch of road continued for about 2 kilometres, and that whole length was lined by the glimmer of a million broken green bottles. The most recyclable material around, and it was condemned to be ground into the earth by stray boots, cars, animals, and inevitably…. my bike tyres.
Its a sad sight to see.

CaravanAnother thing which became a memory sadly synonymous with Syria was the food poisoning and stomach viruses. The day we reached Aleppo, it had taken its toll on Dan. Perhaps somewhat arrogantly, and certainly against the advice of my friend Lubna, we continued to eat any food we could get our hands on, salads and all. One day later, Stu fell ill. Two days after that, Craig and I did. Speaking to our fellow British friends from Aleppo later on, it turned out all but one of our group of 7 had been ill. Not an enjoyable situation when you have a couple of hundred kilometres left to cycle, and cannot eat.

With that in mind it was a relief to roll into Damascus late at night, and finish the first leg of the journey, just in time to avoid the following snow.


Route


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Turkey

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Syria

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