As chilly as its been over the past couple of weeks, I still love that Autumnal feel in the air. Its true that everything becomes a bit of a pain- the dampness underfoot from the morning’s dew, the leaves sticking to everything, and the perpetual mist and haze that seems to linger over Eastern Europe.

But I still love that freshness, and the look of the trees in the half morning light with just one or two leaves clinging on.
True, they don’t have the same brilliance as in other parts. They don’t have that uniform fire that makes the trees in Japan glow in every direction. There’s still colour everywhere else though. The mountain sides burn red from the setting sun. Last night was the most amazingly clear night sky I’ve ever experienced, the Milky Way clear and bright. A dizzying number of stars. Your entire peripheral vision flashes with tiny sparks. And back in the daytime there feels like fewer and fewer colours. The trees still have life in then, but as we head toward winter and further into Bulgaria, the road is slowly becoming much starker…
This morning was -1, with there is ice both out and inside the tent. Not just frost, but ice. And a thick fog has descended on us, making nothing visible….. It makes waking up in the middle of the night needing the toilet all the more painful…


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